Life happens. The big, brown, proud turkey Papa’s name is Ziptie. The first turkey poult (turkey chick) began to hatch, breaking through the shell with determination. The joy of witnessing a new life was quickly overshadowed the next morning by sadness as the first poult, despite its brave efforts, did not survive. However, a few days later, a second poult emerged, strong and full of life. This little survivor brought a renewed sense of hope. Now starts the 8-week adventure of keeping these extremely − I mean − extremely. delicate creatures alive! Hopefully, with a lot of love, these poults can match the survival rate & hardiness of chicken chicks. God is GOOD!

Remember, life can be a joyful journey. Enjoying all moments is up to YOU!

Updates through “Lizzie Said What” social media.

February Calendar

Average temperature High 74 Low 51

Rainfall 2.35 inches

Central Florida’s average last frost date; February 15.

What to plant

Vegetables: Plant through mid-month; beets, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, collards, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, peas, potatoes, radishes, Swiss chard and turnips. After mid-month plant; beans, cantaloupe, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, luffa, peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes and watermelon.

Flowers: Alyssum, aster, baby's breath, bacopa, begonia, candytuft, carnation, calendula, coneflower, coreopsis, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, diascia, dichondra, dusty miller, false heather, four o'clock, gaillardia, gaura, gazania, geranium, gerbera, Johnny-jump-up, lobelia, million bells, nasturtium, pansy, petunia, rose, salvia, snapdragon, Stokes aster, sweet pea, and yarrow.

Herbs: Anise, basil, borage, chives, dill, fennel, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, and thyme.

Bulbs: African iris, amaryllis, Amazon lily, Asiatic lily, blackberry lily, blood lily, bulbine, caladium, canna, crinum, day lily, gladiolus, gloriosa lily, Louisiana iris, society garlic, spider lily, rain lily.

Lawn care

• Zoysia and Bahiagrass lawns turned brown due to cold; no special care is needed at this time.

• Mow zoysia lawn to recommended height of two inches and remove thick thatch.

• Those brown spots in lawns are likely weeds; remove and resod when grass is available.

• One way to control weeds is with regular mowing to reduce them to the height of the lawn.

• Cool season weeds can also be spot treated with herbicides as labeled for your lawn type.

• When previous brown patch disease has been noted, apply fungicide for lawns according to label instructions.

• Crabgrass preventers can be applied mid-month to stop annual warm seasonal weeds from germinating.

• Do not use crabgrass preventers if you plan to resod, seed or need runner growth.

• Seeding of ryegrass for a temporary lawn is over; most permanent lawns should recover soon.

• Tan to brown cold damaged blades can be left or raked from lawns as growth begins.

• Delay feedings of centipede and zoysia lawns until they regreen for spring in April.

• Inspect irrigation systems; check for clogged or broken sprinkler heads and adjust as needed.

• Check rain shut-off devices to ensure they are working correctly.

• Sod or plug new lawns; begin seeding after mid-month.

• Turf is hard to establish in shady sites; consider another ground cover.

• Take time to have a soil acidity test made and readjust the soil pH if needed.

• Aeration can help older and overfertilized lawns with compacted soils, nematodes or hard to wet soils.

• Service lawn care equipment before spring arrives.

Vegetable & Fruit Gardening

• Frosts and freezes have ended many warm season crops; remove declining plants.

• Prepare gardens by tilling in organic matter with sandy and previously planted sites.

• Hurry to plant the last of the cool season vegetables in early February.

• Start seeds of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants now to have transplants by March.

• Prune cold damage from tropical tree and shrub type fruiting plants as needed.

• Bananas and papayas may have been frozen and need heavy pruning or replanting

• Pineapples may yellow their leaves and need major pruning but the plants should survive.

• Prune all deciduous fruit trees and vines as soon as possible.

• Learn how to thin peach & nectarine trees to obtain the best production.

• Plant container gardens to enjoy vegetables and herbs on porches and patios.

• Fertilize, groom and harvest herbs to keep them producing, dry and store extras.

• Warm season vegetables planted in late February are likely to need cold protection.

• Support vining crops by tying the vines to a stake or trellis.

• Plant additional fruiting trees, shrubs and vines.

• Purchase new seeds for the garden early to obtain the best selections

• Check with your University of Florida Extension office for new and better fruit varieties.

• Pine bark fines can be used to help adjust the soil acidity for blueberry plantings.

• Feed all fruit producing trees, shrubs and vines in late February.

• Use fallen leaves to form pathways, add a mulch to gardens or make compost.

• Sharpen, shovels, hoes and pruners to have them ready for spring planting and plant care.

In the landscape

• Take an inventory of cold damaged plants that may need to be replaced.

• Prune cold damage plants when you cannot stand seeing the brown leaves and branches.

• Plants may continue to decline due to cold so keep the pruners handy

• Perennials may be dead to the ground but should begin growth with warmer weather.

• Prune all but late winter and spring blooming trees and shrubs as needed.

• Reshape overgrown and out of bounds plantings including hedges.

• Only prune seed heads, small stems and suckers from crape myrtles.

• Prune ornamental grasses to within a foot or two of the ground before growth begins.

• Remove declining fronds and fruiting stalks from palms; leave the good green foliage.

• Give all but climbing roses a first of the year pruning around mid-month.

• Trim climbing roses after spring blooms to only remove dead or out of bounds shoots.

• Look for Florida bulbs to plant at garden centers to obtain the best selection.

• Move poinsettias to the landscape on warm days and apply a slow release fertilizer.

• Begin landscape tree, shrub and flower feedings if needed for growth and foliage color.

• Feed container gardens every other week or use a slow release fertilizer.

• Replant declining container gardens.

• Start seeds of warm season annuals and long-lasting perennials.

• Maintain a mulch around trees starting a foot from the trunks; six inches from shrubs.

• Prepare new flower beds; add organic matter to sandy soil.

• Plant bare root and container grown trees, shrubs and vines.

• Begin every other week feeding of orchids by month’s end or apply a slow release fertilizer.

• Start compost piles from leaves and yard debris plus thin layers of soil and a little fertilizer.

• Divide and transplant perennials.

• Clean lily ponds to prepare for spring growth.

Foliage and house plant care

• Many outdoor foliage plants show signs of decline: remove affected portions as needed.

• Replace severely cold damaged foliage plants when the weather warms.

• Check previous indoor plant additions for mites and insects.

• Most holiday plants can be grown outdoors when the weather warms.

• Give Christmas and holiday cactus a bright spot in the home; water when they start to dry.

• Remove faded flowers and stalks from forced amaryllis bulbs; add the bulbs to the garden.

• When indoor orchid flowers fade, move the plants outside to a warm shady site.

• Groom indoor foliage to remove old leaves, faded flowers and declining portions.

• Trim indoor topiaries and tree like plants to control size and shape.

• Feed all container plantings.

a. Hardy Ageratum – Conoclinium coelestinum Full to partial sun, moist soils.

b. Blue Salvia – Salvia guaranitica - available at local nurseries. Full sun, well-drained soils.

c. Bluephoria™ – Mandevilla spp. ‘Bluephoria’™ available at local nurseries. Zone 9 -11 Full to partial shade, moist but well-drained.

d. Scabiosa – Scabiosa triandra Zones 6 - 11, Full sun, well-drained soil.

e. Lily of the Nile - Agapanthus africanus ‘Storm Cloud’ Zone 7 - 11 Full sun, moist but well-drained soils.

Dirty Word of the Day - "Cut and Come Again"

“Cut and Come Again” vegetables: Swiss Chard, Lettuce

What are “cut and come again” plants? When we typically think about growing gardens, we think about seasons. We grow cool-season plants, like beets, carrots, lettuce, and kale, in the Fall and warm-season plants, like bok choy, chives, tomatoes, herbs, purslane, and scallions. Farms grow large expanses of one crop to harvest one time. Smaller gardens have the advantage of a caretaker, gardener, who can or needs to harvest on a daily or weekly basis.

Growing edibles that supply enough food throughout the growing season is optimum without the need to replant. Harvesting edible vegetables and flowers allow gardeners to pick and choose to eat it at the perfect time, and allow the vegetable to keep growing, so you can eat fresh produce all season long.

Benefits to having a “Cut and Come Again” garden includes, reducing waste. You pick and cut what you want to eat when it’s freshest, leaving the rest to grow again for a future meal. If you don’t have the space to grow a lot of vegetables, or can and store vegetables, cutting just what you can eat, will reduce waste.

You can save money by not buying new plants or reseeding to extend your season. Your plants are already growing, no need to wait for it to have roots and become established. Plants can produce more leaves, flowers, or fruit in a smaller area.

And it slows bolting. Cool-weather crops, such as lettuce, spinach, broccoli, kale, some herbs, and even some flowers such as pansies and violas tend to bolt in hot weather—going to seed by putting out flower stems before harvest. Plants that bolt typically develop a bitter taste. Harvesting regularly can postpone bolting. Furthermore, taking the outer leaves of leafy plants like lettuce and spinach prevents them from maturing, ensuring continued vigorous growth.

It also keeps most of your garden plants healthier and more robust by cutting it for your meals. Harvesting the older leaves also reduces susceptibility to disease and pests. Removing the mature leaves helps keep the plant healthy.

So, how do you cut and come again? Keep an eye on how many leaves you have growing and where they are on the plant. You can cut as many of the larger, older leaves as you need, but leave the younger, brighter, smaller leaves to continue to grow. Trim the leaves down towards the base of the plant. Be gentle so you don’t break or bruise the new growth. Once you cut the older leaves, the plant will force more effort into growing those smaller leaves.

Whenever using tools in the garden, please make sure they are sharpened and sterilized to prevent disease and bruising.

Cut 2 to 4 inches of leaf just above a leaf node or a pair of leaves by using shears or your fingers to snap them off. Don’t cut all the foliage so the plant can continue to go through photosynthesis and only remove one third of the plant. Removing more than this will cause stress and possibly death.

Not all vegetable varieties are conducive to “cut and come again.” Keep an eye and (a tongue) to see how your vegetables are doing. Some plants can get bitter as they age or may decline after cutting. These plant varieties can differ by regions, weather, and zone.

As with cutting flowers for floral displays, and herbs for cooking, cutting your edibles in the morning helps plants stay their freshest till time for dinner. Placing your harvest in cool water will help hydrate them so they don’t dry out before use.

  • Arugula

  • Asparagus

  • Bok Choy

  • Broccoli

  • Celery

  • Chinese Cabbage

  • Chives

  • Dandelion

  • Daylilies

  • Endive

  • Fiddlehead Ferns

  • Herbs

  • Kale

  • Lettuce

  • Mustard Spinach

  • Nasturtium

  • Purslane

  • Radicchio

  • Rhubarb

  • Sorrel

  • Spinach

  • Spring Onions

  • Swiss Chard

*Greens: Beetroot, Carrot, Collard, Mustard, Turnip.

Landscape expert Teresa Watkins answers gardening questions on Florida’s most popular garden radio show, Better Lawns and Gardens. Listen every Saturday from 7am - 9am EST on WFLA- Orlando, iHeart radio, and wherever you listen to podcasts. https://bit.ly/3c1f5x7

Happy New Year! I hope you had a fabulous holiday season with family and friends. January’s gardening weather will be typical in that this month Florida usually receives its first of several major freezes. What won’t be typical is that meteorologists are predicting a Polar Blast coming down as far South as Lake Okeechobee mid-January. Chances of snow in the Panhandle and Jacksonville areas are likely. The coldest winter temperature record for Florida was in 1899 with the chilly low of - 2 degrees.

Tropical plants will be damaged. You can ease the damage by using frost cloth on your clusia, crotons, gardenias, hibiscus, ixora, plumbago, poinsettias, blue daze, Hawaiian tis, bananas, and other popular ornamentals.

What plants will be okay during a freeze? Any winter annuals, like alyssum, pansies, stock, delphiniums, hollyhocks, hostas, foxgloves, ornamental cabbage, kale, and sweet peas. Shrubs that can take a freeze include azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas, jasmines, roses, sweetshrub, anise, ligustrum, viburnum, and podocarpus.

Palms that survive freezes are Bismarck, Cabbage, Pindo, Washingtonia, Chinese Fan, Windmill, and Phoenix varieties.

Citrus trees that withstand freezing temperatures like lemon, lime, kumquats, tangerines, some grapefruit, and navel varieties.

To ensure that your plants are ready for a freeze, if you do not receive any rainfall this week, irrigate your landscape with one” of water before and after a freeze. Do not turn your irrigation on at night during the freeze. Do not attempt to keep your plants frozen. This was an old-time practice with citrus growers and it’s not effective for residential landscapes.

After your freeze, hold off on any pruning for a few weeks. Remember that we have a few more months of winter and could still get a few more freezes. Any pruning you do will spur the plant to produce new leaves which would further damage the plant, causing it to die.

Continue to water normally 1x a week and your landscape will recover by Springtime.

Did you know that America had its own royal mansions and majestic botanical gardens? Check out our Art in Bloom Garden Tour to the Newport Flower Show and grand formal gardens and mansion landscapes, June 19th - June 25th. It’s a wonderful journey back to the Gilded Era that I have enjoyed many times. To find out more, check out the details.

Do you know what to do in your landscape this month? Check out what to plant, what actions need to be taken in your landscape in January.

My design tips this month are especially important for all our new residents to Florida. This is the best time of year to start designing your landscape and I have the important aspects to note this time of year.

How did Lizzie and Gerald do over the holidays? I think he looks like he stuffed himself! Check out Lizzie’s Garden Adventures.

My Plant of the Month is one of Christmas’s most misunderstood plants! Have you had a cyclamen die on you? Maybe you gave up too soon.

I am looking forward to a great year of designing landscapes, working in my garden, and getting a new fence up. What are you planning for your landscape this year? Let me know by calling me on Better Lawns and Gardens Saturday mornings 7am - 9am, or anywhere you listen to podcasts.

Here’s to 2025 and helping gardens thrive!

Use this winter’s experience to assess your landscape for year-round sustainability. What plants die, what plants survive each season? Check out your neighbors’ landscapes to see what lives, what looks good. I pay attention, talk, and write about gardening every day out of the year so I am aware of temperatures and the weather and don’t keep a journal per se, but if you are new transplant to Florida or you moved to a different location in Florida, you may not know what to expect. It’s a good idea to keep a journal or just a notepad, calendar to jot down, if it rained, the temperatures. Note the different areas in your yard that you didn’t get freeze-damage. Pay attention to areas that seem to puddle more or dry out quicker that other parts of your yard. Sunlight is one of the most important aspects of assessing your landscape. In the winter, where is the sun, what parts of your yard are shaded? This information will make designing your landscape and selecting new plants for your garden more successful.

“Get Gilded” at the Newport Flower Show and Explore the Historic Block Island.

Come along back to the turn of the 20th century when Gilded Age mansions were all the rage in Newport and an escape to Block Island was a summer haven for the privileged. This tour features grandeur beyond belief: majestic formal gardens, spectacular landscapes, and historical sites. You’ll embark on a guided tour of naturalesque Block Island followed by lunch at the historic National Hotel, stroll your way through the displays at the Newport Flower Show, visit Marble House and Rough Point, experience the incredible Green Animals Topiary Garden, and have a stately luncheon tea at Blithewold Mansion. This outing is a great way to kick off your summer. Come along and “Get Gilded!” More information: Art in Bloom Garden Tours.