landscape maintenance

There once was a new home being built in a wealthy, very celebrated community. It was time for the sidewalk to be poured. The hardscape contractor noticed that the irrigation spray head was in the sidewalk and asked the landscape irrigation contractor to move it. He asked nicely three times. The landscape irrigation contractor didn’t move it. So the hardscape contractor couldn’t wait and because he was a professional, he went ahead and poured the cement but made sure the head wasn’t covered. Now landscape irrigation contractor and the hardscape contractor and the builder all got paid and lived happily ever after.

This home was built ten years ago, and my client wanted to renovate their front yard. I noticed the irrigation head and couldn’t believe that it was allowed to happen. Coincidentally, the hardscape contractor was working on a patio next door and he was the one who actually told me the story. Not a lick of shame as he told me that he just went and poured the cement anyway. I don’t know if the spray ever worked but it was never going to work now.

Just a blatant reminder of the lack of initiative and poor workmanship to move the irrigation pipe out of the way or demand from the builder that the problem needed fixed.

If you see something, say something.

Growing up in the 50’s and 60’s my idea of bare-bottom was the Coppertone advertisements of its sunscreen lotion. A frisky puppy tugging at a baby’s diaper displayed on billboards and magazines, bare-bottom became synonymous with nostalgic Florida beaches. It became an iconic symbol selling millions of dollars in suntan products.

Back to the future in the 21st century, a frequent public display of landscape malpractice is what I call “bare-bottom syndrome.”  It’s when landscape maintenance companies or homeowners, especially ISTJ and ESTJ personalities, engineers, or linear thinkers, use their pruning tools to cut straight down the sides and tops of shrubs. They look perfectly neat and straight… for a while.

After one to two years of cutting the branches and leaves with straight lines prevents the shrub from receiving adequate sunlight to the bottom of the plant. This causes the plant to drop its leaves, resulting in a bare bottom with a V-shaped shrub. Leaves only at the top of the plant and no privacy.

To prevent losing your foliage, cutting shrubs with a slight angle outward at the bottom will enable the plant to keep bottom branches growing leaves.  

Rejuvenate improperly cut shrubs in stages, prune the tops first so that the area is smaller than the rest of the shrub. Allow sides to grow out.  Prune thereafter at a slight 80⸰ angle allowing the bottom to be larger than the top of the shrub.

Pruning your shrub correctly without bare-bottom syndrome, you won’t need to have nostalgia remembering what your plants looked like when you first installed them. Your hedge will stay full and dense with plenty of leaves at the bottom. .  

See the graphic for correct angle.

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins

What to Do in Your Garden

October 2024

 Two hurricanes within two weeks at the beginning of the month is more than anyone should have to deal with in their lives. For most it means that instead of doing routine schedule of yard maintenance, there will be clean-up and recovery.  Additional items to check are in each garden section.

 Average temperatures High 85 Low 65

Average Rainfall 2.73 inches - This month will see over 10 - 15 inches in parts of Florida.

 

October plantings

 Vegetables: Beet, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, collards, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onion, peas, potato, radicchio, radish, rhubarb, roquette, rutabaga, spinach, strawberry, Swiss chard and turnip

 Flowers: African daisy, alyssum, angelonia, ageratum, begonia, black-eyed Susan, blue daze, calendula, candytuft, celosia, chrysanthemums, cleome, coleus, cornflower, cosmos, dianthus, dusty miller, gaillardia, gazania, geraniums, gerbera, heliotrope, hollyhock, impatiens, larkspur, lobelia, nicotiana, pentas, petunia, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, sweet pea, verbena and zinnia.

 Herbs: Anise, basil, bay laurel, borage, cardamom, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic, lavender, lemon balm, lovage, mint, nasturtium, oregano, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, thyme and water cress.

 Bulbs: African lily, agapanthus, amaryllis, anemone, bulbine, calla, crinum, day lily, gingers, gladiolus, pineapple lily, rain lily, society garlic, spider lilies, walking iris, watsonia. Refrigerate crocus, daffodils, hyacinth, narcissus, and tulips for forcing.

 Grasses: Lomandra Breeze, Miscanthus ‘Adagio’, Muhly Grass, Dwarf Fakahatchee, White Fountain Grass, Lemon Grass.

Lawn care

  •  Get help with any debris or branches near power/communication lines.

  • Watch for lifting roots that may interact with underground utilities or irrigation.

  • Check for leaning trees and hanging limbs, contact a professional arborist to assess.

  • Trees with trunks less than 4 inches in caliper can be easily stood and staked

  • Irrigation is key to success, treat these trees as if just planted and water accordingly

  • Wait until water levels percolate before fertilizing. It will be okay to wait until November for most fall chores.

  • Apply fungicide if your lawn gets fungus easily.

  • Get a soil test from your Extension office before fertilizing your lawn.

  • Do not use weed and feed products on your lawn at the same time.

  • Identify weeds and use a separate herbicide and separate fertilizer according to label.

  • October through spring is a good time to install sod.

  • Fill bare spots in lawns left from summer pests with sod or plugs.

  • Seeding time for bahiagrass is over; delay rye seedings until temperature highs are in the low to mid-70’s.

  • Chinch bugs and sod webworms can linger into Fall; control as needed

  • With the excessive rain, check to see if your turf needs watered at all.

  • Water turf only when it shows signs of moisture stress.

  • Use soil aeration in older, compacted, and poorly-drained soils to encourage better root growth.

  • Continue mowing to maintain proper turf height; keep mowing height the same year-round.

  • Sharpen & balance mower blades to give a smooth cut to leaf blades.

  • Change the oil and air filters of gas-powered equipment for Fall.

  • Use mulch or ornamental ground covers in areas where turf won’t grow.

 Vegetable and fruit tree care

  •  Apply fungicides preventively.

  • Check to make sure all vegetable plants are back in soil and not uprooted from winds.

  • Check trellises for broken attachments, straightening.

  • Harvest pumpkins this month. Look for dying leaves and vines, deep color, and hardened stem and rind.   

  • Use large transplants of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants to get a Fall crop.

  • Stake or trellis tall or vining crops to keep the edible portions off the ground.

  • Feed gardens every 3 to 4 weeks with a traditional fertilizer or use a slow-release product.

  • Tomatoes begin setting and holding their fruits early to mid-month.

  • Add flowers to vegetable gardens to attract pollinators.

  • Prevent spray damage to pollinators; apply sprays when they are not active.

  • Caterpillars are feeding on cucumbers, melons and tomatoes, control with a natural spray.

  • Begin plantings of cool season vegetables around mid-month.

  • Gardeners cramped for space can grow vegetables in containers.

  • Start seeds for transplants of broccoli, cauliflower, and similar vegetables in containers.

  • Add 3” to 4” mulch to the surface of the soil to conserve moisture and keep vegetables dirt free.

  • If you have mulch on landscape beds, apply only enough mulch to bring the depth to 3” – 4”.

  • Groom summer weary herb plantings and start new ones that prefer the cooler weather.

  • Most vegetables & herbs need moist soil; water when the surface begins to dry to the touch.

  • Fruit splitting on citrus trees is normal and may continue into the Fall.

  • Help prevent citrus fruit drop and splitting, water once or twice a week during dry weather.

  • Give citrus the final feeding of the year during early October.

  • Till new garden sites and enrich sandy soils with garden soil, organic matter and manure.

  • Remove offshoots from pineapple plants to start new beds.

  • Start papaya seedlings for late winter transplants.

  • Add strawberry plants to a garden or build a pyramid for planting.

  • Delay pruning all fruit plantings until mid to late winter.

  • Speed up the composting process by turning the piles monthly.

  • Harvest maturing chayote, cocoyam, dasheen, and gourds.

  • Dig in the soil to check sweet potato plantings; most have roots ready to harvest.

Landscape chores

  •  Straighten, upright, and stake if necessary any leaning small trees and shrubs.

  • If a large tree’s roots are more than halfway out of the ground, get a certified arborist assessment before keeping.

  • There is a difference between cutting off damaged and dangerous limbs correctly and pruning. Have a certified arborist cut back any damaged tree limbs.

  • Avoid pruning right after the storm. The plants need a chance to put on new growth and recover. When you see new growth, you can prune away any branches that remain dead or undesirable.

  • Check irrigation heads and lighting wires for damage.

  • Recycle small dead shrubs and branches in your Halloween landscape.

  • Major pruning time is over for azaleas, bougainvillea, camellias, gardenias, and poinsettias.

  • Pick up and dispose as much of the Spanish moss left in yard by hurricane winds

  • Shield poinsettias and holiday cactuses from nighttime light starting mid-month.

  • Most ornamental and shade trees do not need a special feeding

  • Palm diseases are prevalent; clean and sterilize pruners between palms.

  • Be smart and only remove the brown fronds and flower stems from palms.

  • Give hedges a final trimming.

  • Remove suckers and low limbs from trees.

  • Weeds are plentiful in ornamental plantings; hand pull or spot kill to prevent seeding.

  • Whiteflies and mealy bugs are major pest; systemic insecticides offer good control.

  • Drier weather lies ahead; water when the surface soil begins to dry.

  • Most established trees and shrubs can go a week or more between waterings.

  • Walk through yard to check for irrigation obstruction. Trim away limbs and weeds affecting the operation of sprinkler systems.

  • Check container plantings for plugged drainage holes; repotting may be needed.

  • Maintain mulch under trees and shrubs; make sure you can see the flare at the base of the plant and tree.

  • Determine tree needs and plant smaller growing wind resistant species.

  • Check tree and palm supports to make sure they are secure but not damaging the plants.

  • Add Fall plants to hanging baskets and container gardens.

  • Edge sidewalks and plant beds.

  • Replace soil in problem flower beds and planters.

  • Replant flower beds with cool season annuals and perennials; delay pansies until November.

  • Start Pansy and other winter annual seeds now for planting in November and December.

  • Divide perennial and bulb plantings.

  • Give water lilies and bog plants a monthly feeding.

 House & foliage plant care

  •  Order gift amaryllis to be delivered in December for Xmas.

  • Plants reduce pollutants and create a pleasing atmosphere when added to homes and offices.

  • Foliage plants are often a good buy at garden centers during Fall; replace declining plants.

  • Many foliage plants have grown too large for their containers; repot as needed.

  • Groom outdoor foliage plants and begin moving them to a warm location.

  • Most foliage plants need a bright light location but out of the direct sun.

  • Feed plants in bright light monthly; less often in low light.

  • Control insects on plants before moving them indoors.

  • Water holiday cactuses only when the surface soil dries

  • Begin forcing amaryllis and paper white narcissus for indoor displays and discontinue feedings.

  • Make sure indoor poinsettias, holiday cactuses and kalanchoes receive no nighttime light.

I’m guessing the homeowners are big fans of Dr. Seuss or their landscaper tried really hard to get the shrub tiers straight, but it didn’t end well. This reminds me of my Momma trying to cut my bangs straight and I would hear “oops” and she would go back to the side of my head and try again, and again, only to stop when my bangs were only 2 inches long. It did grow back. If this is your landscaper, stop them. There are correct ways to get an exact cut.

  • Take string and a ruler and measure the string for each level’s height of the topiary. Tie the string to the top and hang down to the ground. Take your pruners and clip very lightly where the string (don’t clip the string) is marked. Then take your level and balanced in into the shrub and cut the foliage along the balanced level. Eyeballing isn’t a good idea.

  • You can also take a ruler and just measure between the tiered foliage to get exactly the height you would like.

  • Clip very lightly. This is not a job that needs a pole saw trimmer, but small hand pruners. And it should take you more than 3 minutes to prune 3 shrubs.

If you like the Dr. Seuss theme, go for it. But think about adding garden art to your beds, or large colorful orb or whimsy, so it looks like it’s a deliberate magical garden theme. If your landscaper is having “oops” moments, it’s time to find a new landscaper.