How are you doing? Two hurricanes in the first two weeks of October – we haven’t seen that in Florida ever, and it’s worse further north in Georgia, North and South Carolina, Tennessee, and surrounding border states. This is a month for recovery for millions. With the deluge of over 15” of rainfall in some areas, the loss of thousands of trees, and flooding still affecting Florida, gardening may not be on your to-do list.

Take a deep breath, do what you need to do to take care of your property and you. All those that have been devastated in North, South, and west coast of Florida, know that you are in Lizzie’s and my prayers. Check in with us on our Facebook page. Send us your photos, questions, and comments.

Take advantage of Summit Mosquito Bits and Dunks in stagnant waters around your home, and Green Armor Shield to prevent mosquito bites while working out in your yard. It prevents mosquitos from biting you through your clothing, shoes, tents, out in the woods, clearing out your brush and fallen trees.

If you need help with your landscape, here are a few resources:

It’s been a chaotic month, so keep focused on yourself, family, home, and what you need. If you do need a break and you have gardening questions, especially about your landscape issues, hope you will listen to Better Lawns and Gardens every Saturday morning 7am to 9am on your iHeart station or anywhere you listen to podcasts.

My design tips will be back next month with special emphasis on recovery. Send me your questions, thoughts, or ideas you would like.

Hope everything is back to normal for you and Florida soon. Take care,

Growing up in the 50’s and 60’s my idea of bare-bottom was the Coppertone advertisements of its sunscreen lotion. A frisky puppy tugging at a baby’s diaper displayed on billboards and magazines, bare-bottom became synonymous with nostalgic Florida beaches. It became an iconic symbol selling millions of dollars in suntan products.

Back to the future in the 21st century, a frequent public display of landscape malpractice is what I call “bare-bottom syndrome.”  It’s when landscape maintenance companies or homeowners, especially ISTJ and ESTJ personalities, engineers, or linear thinkers, use their pruning tools to cut straight down the sides and tops of shrubs. They look perfectly neat and straight… for a while.

After one to two years of cutting the branches and leaves with straight lines prevents the shrub from receiving adequate sunlight to the bottom of the plant. This causes the plant to drop its leaves, resulting in a bare bottom with a V-shaped shrub. Leaves only at the top of the plant and no privacy.

To prevent losing your foliage, cutting shrubs with a slight angle outward at the bottom will enable the plant to keep bottom branches growing leaves.  

Rejuvenate improperly cut shrubs in stages, prune the tops first so that the area is smaller than the rest of the shrub. Allow sides to grow out.  Prune thereafter at a slight 80⸰ angle allowing the bottom to be larger than the top of the shrub.

Pruning your shrub correctly without bare-bottom syndrome, you won’t need to have nostalgia remembering what your plants looked like when you first installed them. Your hedge will stay full and dense with plenty of leaves at the bottom. .  

See the graphic for correct angle.

Have you ever heard of turkeys laying eggs in water? No? Well, Geraldean started laying eggs but only if she has a fresh pan of water to stand in. No babies yet. She is only 5 months old & her eggs shells are rubber.

Now, I am focusing on garden bed prep for January, I want to plant by seed and transplanting turkey-friendly plants, like blackberries, chokeberries, clover, elderberries, Chickasaw and flatwoods plum, greens, mulberries, honeysuckles, white proso millet, oats, and sumac.  I have seeds for the groundcovers.

Staying prepared for hurricanes Helena and Milton made it a lot easier to digest and not stress. Afterwards, I am realizing how lucky we are by making it through them.

Updates through “Lizzie Said What” socials.  Remember, life can be a joyful journey. Enjoying all moments is up to YOU!  

Winged Sumac, Rhus copallinum

Are you looking for a shrub or tree that adds beauty and year-round interest to your garden. Check out my Plant of the Month Winged Sumac. Winged Sumac is easy to grow, pest-free, and doesn’t need a lot of water. It is excellent for Florida native gardens. Use as either a privacy plant, backdrop shrub, or as a small tree, Winged Sumacs provides four-season appeal with its’ ethereal foliage that turns brilliant red in the Fall. It does spread easily, making stands of winged sumac, and is well suited for filling in scrub habitat. Beneficial for gopher tortoises, wildlife, attracting butterflies, native bees and other pollinators; Important food source for migratory birds,

You can get Winged Sumac at Quality Green Specialists in Deland.

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins

What to Do in Your Garden

October 2024

 Two hurricanes within two weeks at the beginning of the month is more than anyone should have to deal with in their lives. For most it means that instead of doing routine schedule of yard maintenance, there will be clean-up and recovery.  Additional items to check are in each garden section.

 Average temperatures High 85 Low 65

Average Rainfall 2.73 inches - This month will see over 10 - 15 inches in parts of Florida.

 

October plantings

 Vegetables: Beet, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, collards, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onion, peas, potato, radicchio, radish, rhubarb, roquette, rutabaga, spinach, strawberry, Swiss chard and turnip

 Flowers: African daisy, alyssum, angelonia, ageratum, begonia, black-eyed Susan, blue daze, calendula, candytuft, celosia, chrysanthemums, cleome, coleus, cornflower, cosmos, dianthus, dusty miller, gaillardia, gazania, geraniums, gerbera, heliotrope, hollyhock, impatiens, larkspur, lobelia, nicotiana, pentas, petunia, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, sweet pea, verbena and zinnia.

 Herbs: Anise, basil, bay laurel, borage, cardamom, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic, lavender, lemon balm, lovage, mint, nasturtium, oregano, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, thyme and water cress.

 Bulbs: African lily, agapanthus, amaryllis, anemone, bulbine, calla, crinum, day lily, gingers, gladiolus, pineapple lily, rain lily, society garlic, spider lilies, walking iris, watsonia. Refrigerate crocus, daffodils, hyacinth, narcissus, and tulips for forcing.

 Grasses: Lomandra Breeze, Miscanthus ‘Adagio’, Muhly Grass, Dwarf Fakahatchee, White Fountain Grass, Lemon Grass.

Lawn care

  •  Get help with any debris or branches near power/communication lines.

  • Watch for lifting roots that may interact with underground utilities or irrigation.

  • Check for leaning trees and hanging limbs, contact a professional arborist to assess.

  • Trees with trunks less than 4 inches in caliper can be easily stood and staked

  • Irrigation is key to success, treat these trees as if just planted and water accordingly

  • Wait until water levels percolate before fertilizing. It will be okay to wait until November for most fall chores.

  • Apply fungicide if your lawn gets fungus easily.

  • Get a soil test from your Extension office before fertilizing your lawn.

  • Do not use weed and feed products on your lawn at the same time.

  • Identify weeds and use a separate herbicide and separate fertilizer according to label.

  • October through spring is a good time to install sod.

  • Fill bare spots in lawns left from summer pests with sod or plugs.

  • Seeding time for bahiagrass is over; delay rye seedings until temperature highs are in the low to mid-70’s.

  • Chinch bugs and sod webworms can linger into Fall; control as needed

  • With the excessive rain, check to see if your turf needs watered at all.

  • Water turf only when it shows signs of moisture stress.

  • Use soil aeration in older, compacted, and poorly-drained soils to encourage better root growth.

  • Continue mowing to maintain proper turf height; keep mowing height the same year-round.

  • Sharpen & balance mower blades to give a smooth cut to leaf blades.

  • Change the oil and air filters of gas-powered equipment for Fall.

  • Use mulch or ornamental ground covers in areas where turf won’t grow.

 Vegetable and fruit tree care

  •  Apply fungicides preventively.

  • Check to make sure all vegetable plants are back in soil and not uprooted from winds.

  • Check trellises for broken attachments, straightening.

  • Harvest pumpkins this month. Look for dying leaves and vines, deep color, and hardened stem and rind.   

  • Use large transplants of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants to get a Fall crop.

  • Stake or trellis tall or vining crops to keep the edible portions off the ground.

  • Feed gardens every 3 to 4 weeks with a traditional fertilizer or use a slow-release product.

  • Tomatoes begin setting and holding their fruits early to mid-month.

  • Add flowers to vegetable gardens to attract pollinators.

  • Prevent spray damage to pollinators; apply sprays when they are not active.

  • Caterpillars are feeding on cucumbers, melons and tomatoes, control with a natural spray.

  • Begin plantings of cool season vegetables around mid-month.

  • Gardeners cramped for space can grow vegetables in containers.

  • Start seeds for transplants of broccoli, cauliflower, and similar vegetables in containers.

  • Add 3” to 4” mulch to the surface of the soil to conserve moisture and keep vegetables dirt free.

  • If you have mulch on landscape beds, apply only enough mulch to bring the depth to 3” – 4”.

  • Groom summer weary herb plantings and start new ones that prefer the cooler weather.

  • Most vegetables & herbs need moist soil; water when the surface begins to dry to the touch.

  • Fruit splitting on citrus trees is normal and may continue into the Fall.

  • Help prevent citrus fruit drop and splitting, water once or twice a week during dry weather.

  • Give citrus the final feeding of the year during early October.

  • Till new garden sites and enrich sandy soils with garden soil, organic matter and manure.

  • Remove offshoots from pineapple plants to start new beds.

  • Start papaya seedlings for late winter transplants.

  • Add strawberry plants to a garden or build a pyramid for planting.

  • Delay pruning all fruit plantings until mid to late winter.

  • Speed up the composting process by turning the piles monthly.

  • Harvest maturing chayote, cocoyam, dasheen, and gourds.

  • Dig in the soil to check sweet potato plantings; most have roots ready to harvest.

Landscape chores

  •  Straighten, upright, and stake if necessary any leaning small trees and shrubs.

  • If a large tree’s roots are more than halfway out of the ground, get a certified arborist assessment before keeping.

  • There is a difference between cutting off damaged and dangerous limbs correctly and pruning. Have a certified arborist cut back any damaged tree limbs.

  • Avoid pruning right after the storm. The plants need a chance to put on new growth and recover. When you see new growth, you can prune away any branches that remain dead or undesirable.

  • Check irrigation heads and lighting wires for damage.

  • Recycle small dead shrubs and branches in your Halloween landscape.

  • Major pruning time is over for azaleas, bougainvillea, camellias, gardenias, and poinsettias.

  • Pick up and dispose as much of the Spanish moss left in yard by hurricane winds

  • Shield poinsettias and holiday cactuses from nighttime light starting mid-month.

  • Most ornamental and shade trees do not need a special feeding

  • Palm diseases are prevalent; clean and sterilize pruners between palms.

  • Be smart and only remove the brown fronds and flower stems from palms.

  • Give hedges a final trimming.

  • Remove suckers and low limbs from trees.

  • Weeds are plentiful in ornamental plantings; hand pull or spot kill to prevent seeding.

  • Whiteflies and mealy bugs are major pest; systemic insecticides offer good control.

  • Drier weather lies ahead; water when the surface soil begins to dry.

  • Most established trees and shrubs can go a week or more between waterings.

  • Walk through yard to check for irrigation obstruction. Trim away limbs and weeds affecting the operation of sprinkler systems.

  • Check container plantings for plugged drainage holes; repotting may be needed.

  • Maintain mulch under trees and shrubs; make sure you can see the flare at the base of the plant and tree.

  • Determine tree needs and plant smaller growing wind resistant species.

  • Check tree and palm supports to make sure they are secure but not damaging the plants.

  • Add Fall plants to hanging baskets and container gardens.

  • Edge sidewalks and plant beds.

  • Replace soil in problem flower beds and planters.

  • Replant flower beds with cool season annuals and perennials; delay pansies until November.

  • Start Pansy and other winter annual seeds now for planting in November and December.

  • Divide perennial and bulb plantings.

  • Give water lilies and bog plants a monthly feeding.

 House & foliage plant care

  •  Order gift amaryllis to be delivered in December for Xmas.

  • Plants reduce pollutants and create a pleasing atmosphere when added to homes and offices.

  • Foliage plants are often a good buy at garden centers during Fall; replace declining plants.

  • Many foliage plants have grown too large for their containers; repot as needed.

  • Groom outdoor foliage plants and begin moving them to a warm location.

  • Most foliage plants need a bright light location but out of the direct sun.

  • Feed plants in bright light monthly; less often in low light.

  • Control insects on plants before moving them indoors.

  • Water holiday cactuses only when the surface soil dries

  • Begin forcing amaryllis and paper white narcissus for indoor displays and discontinue feedings.

  • Make sure indoor poinsettias, holiday cactuses and kalanchoes receive no nighttime light.

Grow Big and Grow Home

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins, Windmill Gardens, Holland, MI.

At a recent client consultation, my client was at her wit’s end trying to keep up with the weeding of her garden beds. I could feel her pain. It’s a major issue in the final dog days of summer. Torpedo grass had infiltrated her backyard beds and it was not going to get better or easier to get rid of the weeds. As she had only 7 to 8 plants and an oak tree in a 15’ x  6’ – 7’ space, my best advice was to carefully dig up the plants, preserving as much of the root ball as possible, and lay under another shaded area.  Then I would spray a non-selective herbicide throughout the bed around the tree.  In a week the herbicide would have done its job (always check product label), she could clear and level out the ground, check the plants’ root balls for any torpedograss rhizomes, and replant her shrubs, and mulch.  Determine where the invasive weed is coming from to keep it out of the yard. You could also solarize the bed but this late in the year, you would probably want to delay planting freeze-sensitive shrubs till early Spring.

One of the best ways to keep weeds out of your turf and garden beds is to make sure you start off with a clean slate. Make sure there are no weeds already existing in the ground.  The next way is to make sure your turf or garden bed is healthy with dense coverage and mulched correctly.  Competition and 2” – 3” of mulch can keep weed seeds from germinating or weeds taking over. Leaving large bare spots allows uninvited plants to grow.

 I saw clear examples of weedless beds at the Garden Communicators International 2024 Annual Conference in Grand Rapids, Michigan.  Botanical gardens, private, and trial beds at Frederik Botanical Gardens, private home gardens, and Walters Gardens, showcased lush, abundant plants, with little to no weed issue. And it wasn’t that these gardens had people who pulled weeds 7 days a week. It helps to provide competition, maintain mulch levels, keeping an eye out to remove any new unwelcomed guests. It was also because they spaced the plants based on their mature size, and made sure there was good air circulation. This provides competition for nutrients, water, and sunlight. What is your biggest weed dilemma?  Do you hand pull or feel comfortable using herbicides?  

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins, Michigan State University Grand Ideas Gardens, Grand Rapids, MI.

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins, Walters Gardens, Zeeland MI.

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins, Gardens Crossing Retail Nursery, Zeeland MI.

Photo credit: Teresa Watkins, Walters Gardens, Zeeland MI.

I took over 2000 photographs while I was touring gardens. Check out a few of them at Frederik Meijer Gardens and Sculpture Park album on Facebook.

Fall starts September 22nd, what should you do this month to get your yard ready for Fall? Check out What To Do in Your Landscape for SeptemberMy Plant of the Month is a beautiful flowering vine that has a flower color that will make you euphoric. I’ve added where you can buy the plant online.  I saw beautiful, lush outdoor rooms in Michigan that showcased tropicals. My Design Tips feature how you can create your very own space.  Landscape Malpractice this month is one of the most common mistakes and its just carelessness and ignorance on both landscapers and homeowners. It’s not 10pm, but do you know where your rain sensor is?

Want to travel to beautiful gardens around the world with me? Check out Art in Bloom Garden Tours. America’s oldest and most prestigious Philadelphia Flower Show and a visit to Longwood Gardens will be a wonderful Spring trip!

After attending a wonderful conference that was inspiring and educational, I’m ready to go for the Fall. Listen to Better Lawns and Gardens on Saturday mornings live on WFLA-Orlando and anywhere you listen to podcasts.

This is an incorrectly installed irrigation rain sensor that was installed years ago by a landscaper or irrigation company. It is located underneath 5 - yes FIVE - live oak trees and will never be able to receive rainfall. Since 1981, it’s been a Florida law (FS 373.62) that all automatic irrigation systems must have a working rain sensor that turns the system off when there has been enough rainfall. This technology (like all equipment) works correctly when it is located properly in a spot that is unobstructed and can receive rainfall easily and maintained on a regular basis. Most irrigation rain sensors cost less than $75 and will save thousands of gallons of water a year and hundreds of dollars for the homeowner. Every home with an automatic irrigation system, (no matter when the irrigation system was installed) is legally requited to have a rain sensor. If your landscaper doesn’t know if you have a working rain sensor on your irrigation system, that’s a red flag. They should be checking it regularly.

Teresa's Plant of the Month for September

I first laid eyes on the new Sun Parasol® Original XP Bluephoria™ Mandevilla at the Tropical Plant Industy Expo last January. It took my breath away. The colors of the bluish=purple flowering vine in the pot were striking. Recently, I received a Bluephoria from Costa Farms to trial. It’s loving the rain and blooming nicely. I immediately began to think of all the ways I could use this fabulous blue flower in my landscape designs: as the filler and spiller in containers, as a hanging basket, or as a trellised vine. It is not considered winter-hardy in Zones 8 and 9. But the color? This one deserves a blue ribbon!

Photo credit: Sun Parasol.